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As others have said, try 65% or even 63% or 64%.
Also try dryboxing cigars 1-2 days before smoking them. Less necessary at 63-65% storage but still often helpful, and usually quite necessary at 70% storage. Dryboxing means leaving them outside a humidor. You can do any of these options:
1. place them in their cello sleeves in an unhumidified humdor.
2. place them without their cello sleeves in an unhumidified humidor.
3. place them in their cello sleeves on a table somewhere, out in the open.
4. place them without their cello sleeves on a table somewhere, out in the open.
Which of these 4 options to use for a particular stick, and for how long to do it, will become clear over time based on the experience you slowly accumulate.
Try cigar brands that are consistently better-constructed. Allow me to suggest AJ Fernandez's cigars, in my experience they're 99% bang-on perfect in draw resistance and construction quality. He has great rollers and uses a draw-test machine on every cigar, with the acceptable range apparently set quite narrowly for precision and consistency.
Don't smoke in high-humidity conditions (e.g. outside when it's raining, outside on an excessively humid day, inside in your wet-sauna or hottub room, etc.)
The PerfecDraw tool is the best tool of its kind, however there's a very narrow "Goldilocks zone" between using it too little to make a difference in the draw and using it too much, leading to a cigar with excessive airflow AROUND tobacco (i.e. essentially too big of an air channel in the center of the cigar that lets drawn-in air bypass the tobacco entirely) which leads to a terrible uneven/unmanageable burn, excessively-loose draw and a "bland hot air" taste that ruins the cigar experience. Be careful. Also remember some cigars cannot be saved with the PerfecDraw as that middle zone doesn't exist (you go straight from "still too tight of a draw" to "crap burn and hot air taste").
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