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Last post 20 years ago by limoric. 25 replies replies.
Gardeners???
limoric Offline
#1 Posted:
Joined: 03-08-2001
Posts: 623
Does anybody now of a good website to do with growing tomatoes. I've searched and I'm getting pretty pi$$ed off with the results. Thanks

eric1 at telusplanet dot net
Mr.Mean Offline
#2 Posted:
Joined: 05-16-2001
Posts: 3,025
What's the problem?

Bottom rot? Try sulfur
jjohnson28 Offline
#3 Posted:
Joined: 09-12-2000
Posts: 7,914
I don't know, I've found most everything I wanted to know by doing a search from Netscape or Google.

Here's a tomato BB that looks informative.


http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/tomato/

mrsanmrfox Offline
#4 Posted:
Joined: 01-10-2003
Posts: 133
You might want to try this site. Its a forum for gardeners

http://www.vegetable-gardening-club.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=24

Brad
limoric Offline
#5 Posted:
Joined: 03-08-2001
Posts: 623
Mr.Mean,

Got some roma's going that are supposed to mature in 62 days, mine are starting to turn red now but it seams longer. I don't know at which point the 62 days starts. From transplant? Flower? Start of tomato Growth. This is my first year.

Just want a sight that gives me the scoop, without having to read every post. Thanks, I'll try these sites.
limoric Offline
#6 Posted:
Joined: 03-08-2001
Posts: 623
Ya, I've been to these sites. You'd think I'd be able to find the answers to some of my questions through a search. Must be a small community. I don't have that kind of patience. It took me 3 days of pulling out my hair to learn about chili pepers.
Slimboli Offline
#7 Posted:
Joined: 07-09-2000
Posts: 16,139
limoric --- that number usually means from seed to fruit ... under ideal conditions ...

... those numbers really don't mean anything more than to give a broad guideline, so you can determine if they are goting to ripen between when your snow thaws, and before your first frost.

It all has to do with your climate, soil conditions, types of fertilizers used ... and more importantly, on how hot it gets in your area.

Tomatoes really won't do that well, unless you live in a very warm climate, with long sunny days ...also, they like infrequent, deep, waterings ...

Give them plenty of growing room ... and keep in mind that they are extremely deep rooted.
Mr.Mean Offline
#8 Posted:
Joined: 05-16-2001
Posts: 3,025
I don't know how close your climate up there is to mine here in the Chicago area, but, it has been very cool and my tomato crop this year is way down. And on my Jersey Devil and Viva Italia things seem to be on a slow road to completion.
limoric Offline
#9 Posted:
Joined: 03-08-2001
Posts: 623
Mr.Mean,

We must be the reverse, Western Canada is hot this year. Normal Temp for July and August is 72, it's averaged at least 82 for all of july and the last 2 weeks has been between 84 and 90. Very sunny Alberta.

My Roma's have around 10 per plant and my Beef Eater has around 30 and it's still flowering. The Roma's are just turning red, but it's been over 80 days as apposed to 62. That's where I'm confused. My Beef Eater will probably start turning red at end of Aug. and well into Sept. It's the envey of friends and familly. Oh ya, I have 4 hot pepper plants all in one pot. 2 super chili, 1 garden salsa and 1 habanero. There must be 50 peppers in that thing.
mrtelcom Offline
#10 Posted:
Joined: 03-25-2004
Posts: 2,255
Be careful... at 63 days sometimes THE KILLER TOMOATOS ATTACK
mrtelcom Offline
#11 Posted:
Joined: 03-25-2004
Posts: 2,255
err.... tomatos
Mr.Mean Offline
#12 Posted:
Joined: 05-16-2001
Posts: 3,025
I believe the time frame should be from germination to fruit. So you should add at least a week to your due date. Your temps are much better than ours have been.
I'm envious on your pepper production :(
limoric Offline
#13 Posted:
Joined: 03-08-2001
Posts: 623
so like 69 days, 62+7. I'm at least 80 days now. Before I transplanted them a second time, they were in much smaller pots. I wonder if that delayed their growth, taking them longer to mature.
Mr.Mean Offline
#14 Posted:
Joined: 05-16-2001
Posts: 3,025
Shock time should be taken into consideration.
How often have you been feeding?
limoric Offline
#15 Posted:
Joined: 03-08-2001
Posts: 623
vegie fertilizer about every 10 days and because it's been hot, water every day
Slimboli Offline
#16 Posted:
Joined: 07-09-2000
Posts: 16,139
limoric --- never put more than one plant in a pot, as they are competing with each other ...

When the plants are at the seedling size ... you should have clipped off all but the strongest one.

They are much healthier and the plant will grow much bigger, if you do ...
Natsmoker Offline
#17 Posted:
Joined: 09-09-2002
Posts: 138
Eric,

Like slim said the mature date is very impercise. Doesn't matter how hot it is now if you had a cool June/July. This would delay maturity. My plants do best when it is in the upper 80s and humid. I never pay attention to those dates. They will always turn red eventually. I'm in NY and last year I was picking fresh ripe tomatoes in November.

limoric Offline
#18 Posted:
Joined: 03-08-2001
Posts: 623
Cool,

Slim, the only plants that are together are the peppers and they are doing incredible. Also hoping for some cross polination so when I harvest the seeds, I may come up withs some Hybrids next year.

The Tomatoes are seperate. I've been pruning the Beef Eater, and it looks great. Was recommended not to prune the roma's as it doesn't make a difference, the fruit generally matures all at the same time and will not flower thoughout the summer as the Beef Eater will.

All in all, it's been fun. next year I will try a few different things.
Intel Offline
#19 Posted:
Joined: 06-24-2002
Posts: 546
If you give tomatoes to much fertilizer they will be more susceptible to disease. When you plant them in the garden use a pine straw and manure compost. You do not need to feed them as much as you are. If you remove some of the flowers the tomatoes will be bigger. We have had so much rain in VA I just got ripe one this week. My watermelons, eggplant, squash, zucchini, cucumber, and butternuts are doing great but my tomatoes are taking forever to ripen all because of to much rain.
Slimboli Offline
#20 Posted:
Joined: 07-09-2000
Posts: 16,139
limoric --- I've done that too with peppers, and had up to four in one pot ... and they did well too!

The point I was trying to make, is that they will do much better, and you will have bigger plants with larger harvests ... if the roots are not in to much competition with each other.

Cross pollination is a whole different 'ball of wax' ... Most people do not realize how important it is to prevent cross pollination of plants within the same species of Tomatoes or Peppers.

There are five species of peppers (Capsicum):

1) C. pubescens -- purple flowers and seeds (Rarely grown in the US)

2) C. annuum --flowers are white or purple and have tan seeds (one of the two grown in US)

3) C. chinense-- flowers have a greenish tinge and the ripe fruits have a strong smokey-tropical fruit aroma (Rarely grown in the US)

4) C. frutescens-- flowers have a greenish tinge , but the fruit has a vegetable aroma (one of the two grown in US)

5) C. baccatum -- includes escabeche, kellu-uchu and puca-uchu. (Rarely grown in the US)

Pepper plants are notorious for cross pollinating, and though it is almost impossible to prevent ... the mixing of different DNA from unrelated species does not alway produce desireable results.

Specific hybrids of both peppers and tomatoes have been selectively hybridized under extemely controled environments for years ... to get plants that have larger and better tasting fruit or hotter (in the case of peppers), stronger plants, more disease resistance ... etc.

It would be fun for you to see what comes of it though ... but in my doing what you are attempting to do, I came up with unsatisfactory 'offspring' from those seeds the next year.
Slimboli Offline
#21 Posted:
Joined: 07-09-2000
Posts: 16,139
Here is a site on peppers that you may find interesting:

http://www.chili-pepper-plants.com/html/growing_peppers.html
Slimboli Offline
#22 Posted:
Joined: 07-09-2000
Posts: 16,139
BTW ... Intel is absoultely correct in what he wrote, except for one small point. All plants need a fertilizer of some type, to resist disease and insect damage, but don't over do it!

Too much fertilizer (especially with tomatoes and peppers) ... you will produce more 'green' growth, at the expense of the 'flowering and fruit'.

Remember what the NPK stands for on the bag of fertilizer.

N --- Nitrogen is the first major element responsible for the vegetative growth of plants above ground. With a good supply, plants grow sturdily and mature rapidly, with rich, dark green foliage ...

P --- Phosphate, the second major element in plant nutrition, phosphorus is essential for healthy growth, strong roots, fruit and flower development, and greater resistance to disease ...

K -- Potassium (Potash) is the third major plant nutrient, and potassium oxide is essential for the development of strong plants. It helps plants to resist diseases, protects them from the cold and protects during dry weather by preventing excessive water loss.

Nutrient values (N-P-K) are expressed as total percentage of weight as packaged. Organic nutrients typically tend to have lower NPK values than chemical nutrients. Don't let this fool you, you can easily burn plants if you overfertilize!

rayder1 Offline
#23 Posted:
Joined: 06-02-2002
Posts: 2,226
I can't keep the damn things from growing. I planted three....two varieties of cherry tomato's and one roma. The next year we had 6 plants growing. After they died back..we planted other plants in the yard and danged sure enough...we got about 10 tomato plants poking through. All of them produced enough tomato's for a small veggie stand.

Sorry I can't help yo get difficult plants started I need help in getting these damned things to stop growing...LOL.
THL Offline
#24 Posted:
Joined: 10-22-2002
Posts: 3,044
Tomatoes are all that I grow. I put in about 10 plants. Mine are all beefsteak type hybrids. I used to plant a couple Early Girls and Pearls thinking I would elongate the harvest. No matter what, they come in at the end of July through August here in Maryland so I just plant the big ones now. You know, the kind where one thick slice covers a whole piece of bread. Add a little mayo, a slice of cheese, some bacon and eat 'em 'til you have blisters in your mouth from the acid. That's summertime!
limoric Offline
#25 Posted:
Joined: 03-08-2001
Posts: 623
Thanks for the info Slim. Ya I'm just playing mad doctor with the cross polination thing. I will plant a regular crop next year. I will plant the harvisted seeds from this year just for fun. I bought seedling this year. Next year it will be from the seed, I'll start them over the winter and then transplant.
limoric Offline
#26 Posted:
Joined: 03-08-2001
Posts: 623
Intel,

Ya it seems that I'm watering my tomatoes, which are in pots, an awefull lot. But the leaves become really wilted like the plant is starting to die. I become concerned and then water. If I let the plant go more than 2 dats without water, they start to wilt. As far as the fertillizer, I'm following the Miricle Grow Vegi fertillizer instruction, every 7-10 days. This fertillizer is much weaker than the all purpose and is intended for plants like tomatoes. But if I'm over doing it I'd sure like to know. Should I stop adding the fertillizer?.

Hey some of my BeefEaters are just starting to turn color, will they keep getting bigger through this process? I do have a lot of tomatoes on my plant, around 40, the plant is 3 feet high. some branches have 3-4 tomatoes clumped together all around the same size. I suppose I should be pruning some of these, I just feel guilty killing the little guys. What do you think? What does everyone think?

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