Polyurethane is the most resilient finish available. Lacquer is the most serviceable short of an oil finish.
Poly:
Sanding between coats
Difficult to brush – best sprayed or thinned and wiped
The look of a plastic coating
Can yellow with age
Solvent, alcohol and bullet proof
Repair by sanding off and replacing.
- It’s a resin coating (a casting).
Lacquer:
Coat as many times as you like, the new coat dissolves and binds with the previous.
Difficult to brush – best sprayed.
Can be a natural mat finish or a fine mirrored surface.
Stays clear unless damaged
Tough finish that cannot stand solvents – don’t use it for a bar top.
Lacquer melts off with lacquer thinner.
- It’s colloid plastic (re-meltable like wax).
I only use Poly for surfaces that see a lot of hard ware – out side doors, table tops, and my favorite; bars. For book cases, beds, artwork, etc., nothing beats the ease of shooting lacquer. And I would tell you that the look is much finer, as it can be rubbed out to give the texture and sheen that is desired.
Danish oil, “teak oil”, etc., are linseed oil or similar mixed with urethane. They are a nice happy medium for the look of an oil finish, and the need for a protective coating. If you like this approach, Maloof has a nice mix with oil, urethane and bees wax. I’m told it kick the “Teak” out of Danish oil.