America's #1 Online Cigar Auction
first, best, biggest!

I've read the fgm and brewha threads about lining with spanish cedar but I have a few questions.

Most sites say to order in 1/10 board foot increments. How do you figure this out based on square footage?

What is the best site to order from? I looked on Rockler at Brewha's suggestion. Has anyone had amazing luck anywhere else?

Do you line the inside of the doors?

Can I use the existing shelf or should it be replaced with cedar?

Any other helpful tips will be welcome. Planning on doing this myself and am not that skilled of a craftsman. PM's welcome as well.


Thanks

Try woodfinder. Great resource for potential sources. You don't need to line the doors though it is preferred. Suggest you replace the shelf with a slotted cedar shelf for the best airflow.

I would also take a look at Fine Woodworking. They have a searchable archive and believe you may find some useful tips there as I seem to recall a few humidor projects.

I had some luck with a local millworks place that's gonna plane and sand some spanish cedar for me. Is there a preference between a rabbit and a tongue and groove for the boards?

It's from the 1920's. It's from a company called Berkey and Gay. I think it's worth some money, but I took it to a guy I know with an antique store who said it was fine to turn it into a humidor. He said as long as I use brad nails it wont do much damage, and that you can always sell something cedar-lined as a linen cupboard. Besides, I'm not looking to sell it.

Well I'm including this as part of my homework. It looks like Brewha used brad nails to hold everything in place. I havent found fishingguitarman's thread yet about his construction.I think i'll leave about 1/8" between the boards for swelling, probably tongue and groove, and line bottom, top, sides, and doors. There's a drawer as well but I think I will leave that for accessories storage and other miscellaneous.

Does anyone know if you're supposed to saturate the boards before you put them in the humidor?

I would put them in dry, then wipe them down several times with solution or distilled water after it's put together.

MHO - not that it is worth much.

While it's ok to wipe them down after installation with a just barely moistened tack cloth to get the cedar dust off of them, wiping them with water for the intent of humidifying the wood you run the risk of causing the grain to "pop" and you'll have rough edges, or some staining / discoloration of the wood. Wiping them with PG/Water solution really increases the chances of staining. An extreme amount of water could even cause uneven swelling of the wood. Much safer to just put your humidifier(s) in and let the wood absorb the moisture naturally over the course of a week or so.

Think it wouldn't matter (personally prefer T&G) but Rabbiting probably costs less (less labor)...

Bingo!
But, make sure the wood you buy is kiln dried. Try to buy it locally as a matter of quality control. You may also be able to get it planed and drum sanded as part of the purchase. Go with 1/4" solid Spanish cedar, NOT veneer over plywood or press/particle board.

The reason Spanish cedar is used, aside from imparting some fragrance and flavor, is that it resists mold in high humidity. other certain types of would can be used. i think one is from the mahogany family.

Spanish cedar dust is an irritant and may be either carcinogenic or cause pulmonary disease. Make certain to wear a mask and goggles when cutting and sanding it.

Rip out the shelves and replace them with slotted or drilled out shelves that will not impair air circulation.

Mount an electric outlet inside for you humidification device(s) and a fan or two, and possibly some illumination.

If the interior finish has any fragrance, I would consider sanding it off on the inside.

If the outside needs to be refinished, remove the finish manually, not with chemicals. If it needs to be stained or painted, use only water-based products,which have far less volatility. Consider food grade quality, if necessary.

You may wish to consider placing a simple, inexpensive vapor barrier behind the Spanish cedar lining to make the box very close to airtight.

How will you regulate the temperature?

I hope you love it!

Rh Beads IMO would be a better way to go than one of the elements.

Have been using them for close to 10 yrs now without a bit of trouble

PM sent with some info and a link