There's really no such thing as stereo bass, at least that's what I recall from my car stereo system days. It's non-directional I don't think it benefits from stereo anything. That's why you can run two high range speakers, two mids, and only need one sub. 2 ohms is what I always installed, but that was 1,000 years ago, roughly.

Well these subs are really sensitive, so I think in THEORY, you could probably get stereo sound.

But in practice, running mono sends the same exact signal at the same exact time to both speakers. Part of me doubts that my hearing in sensitive enough to tell the difference, especially as loud as I like my music.

I'm set on a class D monoblock amp. Cheaper, smaller, better on my vehicle's electrical system.... and they make some damn cool ones that light up blue!

also,,

you might have to change your spark plugs to the resistor type .Sometimes non resistor spark plugs cause a hum in hi power stereo systems...

wheel,

I pulled the trigger.....

2 of these.....

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NFA3X0/ref=oss_product 

1 of these.....

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002QUZHSC/ref=oss_product 

To go in this......

http://caraudiofactory.com/022009-chevy-avalanche-cadillac-p-44.html 

Hehehehe.....

You wanted 2 12's in a pickup?!? Geez...aren't you getting too old for that stuff? 🙂 Wouldn't 2 8's or 1 10, or something like that be sufficient?

Somewhere in either my basement or my parent's basement is my old enclosure. It has 2 10" Rockfords in it. I wonder if they are still good...they're about 18 years old now. LOL

http://www.the12volt.com/ 

Is a good site.

...and go with good seperates instead of the subs (IMO).

25. Author: daveincincy Date: 02/01/2010 09:53 AM Reply

You wanted 2 12’s in a pickup?!?

----- I actually WANTED 15's.... but then I figured 12's would be good. Then when I really got to thinking about it, 10's made better sense.

Geez...aren’t you getting too old for that stuff?

------- I'm only 26! "Damn kids and their music!"

Wouldn’t 2 8’s or 1 10, or something like that be sufficient?

------- ZZZzzzzZZZzzzzzzzzzzzz BORING!

Re #18

"I've seen mono amps that have ONE speaker input.... so I'd wire the speakers in parallel INSIDE the box, then just run one set of speaker wires OUTSIDE the box to the sub, correct? I've also seen some mono amps that have two sets of inputs (NOT two channel) that wire parallel internally in the amp... this just makes wiring the subs easier I guess. They both serve the same purpose, right? And running two SVC 4ohm subs 400 watts RMS parallel gives me 800 watts 2 ohms, right?"

------------------

You can wire the two subs in parallel inside or outside of the box, which ever is easier for you. If it's under your seat, external wires wouldn't be a problem since you wouldn't be worrying about how "clean" the install looks. Here's a link to what you'll end up with:

http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/2SVC_4-ohm_mono.jpg 

You're right, two 4-Ohm 400W SVC drivers in parallel will handle 800W when wired in parallel.

Power = I^2*R (Current squared times Resistance)

So if you half the resistance and double the current (which results in 4x as much since you are squaring it), the net result is double the power, so you will end up with a load that can take 800W from the amp.

-JT

Any duplicate "resistance" wired in parallel halves the resistance. Thus, 2 4-ohm speakers wired in parallel will give you 2-ohms that needs to be driven.

Wiring in series is additive. Thus, 2 4-ohm speakers give you 8-ohms.

Now here something to keep in mind: the wattage and resistance ratings for amplifiers and speakers are not simple resistance calculations, but take impeadance as a factor. Impeadance is a function of frequency. Much of this has to do with the speaker being seen by the circuitry as being a coil (inductance).

Furthermore, while you may have an amp that take a 1-ohm, 1600W load, what you're essentially doing by bogging down the amp is pushing the maximum amount of current out the back, possibly affecting the frequency response, and generating more heat on the driving transistors. The heat is the most crutial issue, as over time, heat will damage the power transistors that drive the speakers.

Most amplifier designs make the trade-off of frequency response for power. Having one that does both is rather rare. They also tend to get a little expensive. My opinion is that if you're looking to get a fairly long life out of the amp, draw less power from it.

Having 500W driving a speaker or two is a helluva lot of power.

Good grief. Far too much energy and math involved here. Just go into the impound yard and rip the system out of some gangsta car.

Oh wait, you're in South Carolina. Best you'd get is maybe a really nice gun rack.

OK...make friends with a cop in LA, have him/her go out to the LAPD impound yard.

#29 -

"Most amplifier designs make the trade-off of frequency response for power. Having one that does both is rather rare. They also tend to get a little expensive. My opinion is that if you’re looking to get a fairly long life out of the amp, draw less power from it."

That's why I bought an amp that pushes more power than my speakers can handle.... on paper, anyways. I figure by turning the gain down and not ghetto-blasting it TOO often, I won't fry the speakers. Plus, running an amp at 50% load is probably better than running it at 90% or higher all the time.

#31 Good lord, what, did you suddenly find $50K, er, make that $25K at a drug house? Trying to impress someone to get into MIT?

You're a cop. If you can't make that work for you, you just have no imagination. I give up. You're a nice guy, but I feel I just can't teach you a damned thing.

That boy, I say that boy's head is thicker than a barn post.