July 5th – Nothing brings the wood to life, and shows you what you have been working for like oiling the wood.

Boiled Linseed Oil - Time honored, reliable, stabilizing, color enhancing, predictable - cheap. If only I were so good. It will have to bake in the Texas heat for a week before the lacquer can be applied.

Next comes milling the cedar and/or making the legs.

omg that's amazing... i would sugest a side buisness of makeing them but then again i dont know squat about the humidor market and it's probably over inflated with chinese compeditors like everything else

I'd be concerned about the strong odor of the linseed oil. You going to put a sealer coat?

The odor of linseed oil (strong is right) dissipates once it fully cures – like a week in the heat. Once the oil is dry the wood can accept a few coats of lacquer inside and out, which does a good job sealing the wood. This also helps keep the humidity in, and minimize the moisture expansion of the walnut. Once the lacquer cures, I’ll buff it out and line the inside with cedar.

Looks great! It is amazing how the oil pops the grain and color of the wood.

I spent the weekend getting my garage reorganized -- time to start on the dresser for my son (that should have been finished a few months ago)

Was always a big fan of Watco Danish Oil for refinishing antiques. I used to restore a lot of old wooden cabinet radios from the 30's and 40's. The oil finish really brings out the wood colors.

Brewha - what are your thoughts on lacquer vs polyurethane? (not for Humidors, just woodworking in general). I have tended to use wipe-on polyurethane for most of my projects.

Polyurethane is the most resilient finish available. Lacquer is the most serviceable short of an oil finish.

Poly:

Sanding between coats

Difficult to brush – best sprayed or thinned and wiped

The look of a plastic coating

Can yellow with age

Solvent, alcohol and bullet proof

Repair by sanding off and replacing.

- It’s a resin coating (a casting).

Lacquer:

Coat as many times as you like, the new coat dissolves and binds with the previous.

Difficult to brush – best sprayed.

Can be a natural mat finish or a fine mirrored surface.

Stays clear unless damaged

Tough finish that cannot stand solvents – don’t use it for a bar top.

Lacquer melts off with lacquer thinner.

- It’s colloid plastic (re-meltable like wax).

I only use Poly for surfaces that see a lot of hard ware – out side doors, table tops, and my favorite; bars. For book cases, beds, artwork, etc., nothing beats the ease of shooting lacquer. And I would tell you that the look is much finer, as it can be rubbed out to give the texture and sheen that is desired.

Danish oil, “teak oil”, etc., are linseed oil or similar mixed with urethane. They are a nice happy medium for the look of an oil finish, and the need for a protective coating. If you like this approach, Maloof has a nice mix with oil, urethane and bees wax. I’m told it kick the “Teak” out of Danish oil.

Damn that's looking great! Did you make the plans yourself?

Yes, I made the plans.

The same of it is I’m still not done drawing them.

You aren't concerned that lacquer inside the box, although covered by Spanish cedar, will not have any odor at all?

The Lacquer needs to fully cured before the humidor can be lined, but no, I am not worried about the odor. Things I have lacquered in the past no odor once comply cured - we are talking a week or two in the oven that is a Texas garage – it will be cured of all smell and a good barrier to keep walnut aroma away from the smokes.

Look into Waterlox. Great finish.

Looks great so far!

Brewha, thinks for the info. I will give Lacquer a try on my next project (unless the wife insists that it be painted).

Precision dovetails...perfect!

Hey Brewha, where in Tejas are you?

Kinda wondering what that license plate says in the inserted pic.......

Lookin' good!

Thx to all.

I’m in Highland Village, just North of Dallas/Ft. Worth.

The license plate reads “FUGTVE”.

My father told me the best place to hide was in plain site.