August 2nd – While the stand could hold the weight of the casing, it would take some dowels to pin the joints into place. All of the holes were match drilled so things would be good and tight on assembly (I needed a mallet).

Putting a gentle curve on the legs made a surprising difference in the overall appearance. As did cutting a radius in the supports that hold the case.

Since this was built with left over walnut, largely sap wood, it needed to be colored. Mixing some vinegar with steel wool for a day or so made an iron solution that turns black when it mixes with the natural acid (tannin) in the walnut. Spray it on, and watch it turn black. “ebonizing”.

At last it’s time to line the casing with Spanish Cedar.

Next week on “This Old Humidor”.

Beautiful. Very nice work.

EC

Great work

Send the finished humidor to DrafterX... Send the finished humidor to DrafterX... Send the finished humidor to DrafterX...

Nice. The curve in the legs does and a really nice touch and completely changes the look and feel of the base!

Ima legg man

oooops....wrong color

Thanks to all for the kind words.

It is odd though – I feel a need to rush the competition – and put it in a crate – marked for second day air . . .

Jedi scum!

NINE!

Label the next update "icandy".

Nice work. I need to find a local wood worker to fix my chest of drawers. It's made of black walnut, custom designed by me. Had it made for me, but the drawers need adjusting.

Excellent work Brew, can't wait to see the finished product!!!!!!!

Brewha - did you do the leg curves on the band saw?

was it free hand ot did you use a radius jig of some sort?

I have a heck of a time with curve cuts.

Jojoc, The process for putting the curves in the legs:

1. Make a bow compass with a steel yard stick - tie a string to both ends, pull into a bow and clamp the string to the radius you like. This one started ½” down the leg and penetrated 3/8”.

2. Mark the curve on a pattern master. Use hardboard, rough band saw it and smooth it with a file and sandpaper.

3. Mark a leg and remove most of the waste with a band saw.

4. Mount the hardboard pattern on the leg, and using a router flush trimming bit, transfer the perfect curve to the leg. Makes the curve smooth as a baby’s a--.

5. Relies in the planning stage that the flush trim bit can only cut 1-1/2” thick stock, and the legs are 1-3/4” thick (I created a few new words at this point).

6. Mark a leg with the compass, band saw it, then use a spindle sander to smooth it out. Check the shape with the bow compass while doing the final shaping to get in right.

7. Repeat #6 using the 1st leg as a master for marking and comparing the shape.

I could have bought a 2” flush trim bit for $40, but I am too cheap.

I used a regular compass for the curves in the stretcher uprights. Band sawed and spindle sanded to the line.