Went into the garage today and noticed damp concrete around the water heater. It looked like a good about of water had been put down, but not a standing amount. Just enough I dampen the surrounding area. I can tell it came from the top of the unit because it now has a cruddy water residue around the power vent ontop and streaking down the sides. It was clean before.

However, we still have hot water and it's not leaking at the moment. The power vent seems to work and no pressure issues, & the electrical control box is functioning fine.

Any ideas?

If it is just the pressure relief valve going out...real easy fix

Yea, that's a strange sounding set-up....explain, if not a big problem..

Roof leak..??

Got the same setup, did you have high humidity ? Mine sweats sometimes and I get the same deal.

I would dry off everything really well and try to isolate the source of the leak.

Humidity is average for this time of year and never sweats.

I am tight on cash also. I will try to isolate, but plumbing companies out here are outrageous.

HOW MUCH A NEW ONE IS AND WHAT WILL IT COST TO INSTALL A NEW ONE THE WHOLE JOB IS PROBALY

ABOUT $350 TO $450 including installation and hauling awaYFSSFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFSSSSF the old one.

watch how the plumber and his helper do it and ten or W15 year from now watch the new plumber (the kid that

used to be the apprentice) while he watches hiS APPENTICE BUST HIS KNUCKLESOPENING PIPES THAT HAVE

RUSTED TOGETHER AND GO INTO HIS TRUCK TO FIND THE FREAKY SIZE LENGTH OF PIPE HE HAS BEEN

CARRYING IN THE TRUCK FOR THE LAST TEN YEARS WAITINGF FOR THE DAY HE WILL NEED IT TO FIX YOURS

VERY TRULY YOURS RICK MILLER

FORMER ELECTRICIAN, FORMER PLUMBER, F0RMER GENERAL CONTRACTER FORMER HANDY MAN CURRENTLY.

WRITTIER OF CHECKS

I'd like to find a plumber to do it for that. I'd sub him out aaaaaaall day.

I just did a water heater change-out for a friend yesterday. I can say with "some" certainty, to have a plumber come and do the work will cost you considerably more.

The 60 gallon, 6 year basic GE model costs about 280 clams at Home Depot all by itself. The needed fittings, materials, etc. will run you about another $65- $85. That's up to $365 just for the materials, and THAT is for a basic electric unit. The power vent, gas fired units are not cheaper, they are far more expensive. And material costs will run higher as well, since you add flue parts to it. None of this includes labor dollars, material mark-ups, and taxes.

You want to save coin, as drafter said, do it yourself. There are a ton of resources online for DYI stuff when it comes to plumbing. A Power vent unit is somewhat more complicated than a few couplings, but can be done if you are mechanically inclined.

You have to remember; Captain Caplock's pricing was based from when a loaf of bread cost a nickle.

Whatever you do, DO NOT plug the pressure vent. With the advent of backflow preventers, these keep the heated, expanded hot water from creating a pressure explosion. Do you have a inline pressure regulating tank by your inlet to your house? Make sure there isn't an issue with that. It should keep this from happening.

My guess is you couldn't hire an independent to install for anywhere near HD or lowes could do.

Lifetime parts and labor warranty on mine. Whatever that means.

Need to read better.