Jakethesnake86
2 years ago
Got some ambrosia sweet corn from my seed dealer as a thank you for buying bulk from the guy. I’m gonna put some in my planter and run a few rows at my shop to eat and share
I’m the snake
View All Posts by User
jeebling
2 years ago

Still have to put in cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, sugar snap peas, carrots and potatoes.

I'm gonna make a list of everything we've planted in "Garden A" when we are completely finished with it.

Some of the corn is starting to pop up. Most of in fact, other than those last 7 rows that we planted a few days after our initial planting.

RobertHively wrote:



Most of that, if not all, could be planted a little bit earlier, especially if you’re planning to do two plantings next year.
View All Posts by User
8trackdisco
2 years ago

I’ve been told that grass won’t grow under an Oak tree. From the trunk, you should start seeing grass before you get to the drip line. I keep my Oaks mulched about halfway to the drip line. I start the mulch approximately 1 1/2 - 2 foot from the trunk.

jeebling wrote:



The grass was better in the back yard. The grass has been coming back poorer year over year.
Drip Line? Meaning how wide is the root base, relating to the widest span of the canopy above?
Probably 30 yards across? Have five oaks on the property. Grass grows well enough in the front, but doesn't in the back.
I do the spring weed and seed thing (it will go down after the next rain).
View All Posts by User
8trackdisco
2 years ago

8track, what kind of grass?

How much sun does the area get?

Stogie1020 wrote:



Don't know the type of grass. 150 years ago, this was simply a woods. Grass doesn't grow well in the woods. That said, it use to grow a lot better, getting worse YOY.

There is more sun in the back over the years. One neighbor is a tree assassin, so the mid and late afternoon sun seems to cook it more than in the past. The tree assassin neighbor put in a new lawn last year, so my yard looks even more sickly.
View All Posts by User
Speyside2
2 years ago
Try rye grass in the back, it is rough, but if anything will grow there that is it in my opinion. When I lived in Wisconsin our property had several such areas. An older gent who worked at True Value told me to try rye. I did and it grew just fine.
View All Posts by User
8trackdisco
2 years ago
Bought some organic soil for our raised garden beds.
Once those are poured and all the soil mixed, with test to PH level in the hopes of maximizing our next crop.
View All Posts by User
8trackdisco
2 years ago

Try rye grass in the back, it is rough, but if anything will grow there that is it in my opinion. When I lived in Wisconsin our property had several such areas. An older gent who worked at True Value told me to try rye. I did and it grew just fine.

Speyside2 wrote:



Rye.

Is there an advantage or disadvantage of simply mixing in the rye grass seed with the weed and feed?
View All Posts by User
Stogie1020
2 years ago

Rye.

Is there an advantage or disadvantage of simply mixing in the rye grass seed with the weed and feed?

8trackdisco wrote:


You can also try Fescue, it has decent shade tollerance.

Before you dump seed down, I might think about core aerating the area. You can do it by hand or rent a machine. You mentioned the grass has gortten worse and worse year over year, so soil compaction may be an issue. It may be making it tough for nutrients to get to the grass roots. If youhave a tiller, you could also till in some manure/compost to loosen the soil and re-invite the microorganisms that make the soil healthy.

In terms of the weed and feed, just make sure it doesn't have any pre-emergent herbicides in it, as they work to prevent new growth (like your grass).
View All Posts by User
RobertHively
2 years ago

Applied 30 lbs of 30-0-4 fertilizer to the 1,750 sq ft corn plot this evening. Corn is sitting at 6 to 10 inches tall.

Then we soaked the area with creek water, using our water pump, for about 30 to 35 min.

Used some organic 4-6-3 on all of the plants in the big garden. Watered it as well.

Everything is looking good, especially the corn,

Really appreciate the advice I got here on this thread.
View All Posts by User
BuckyB93
2 years ago
Put the plants out in the containers this past weekend. Went to the farm/garden nursery and bought some of those 6 pack seedling thingies to replace the things that I couldn't start from seed.

Tomatoes: Regular size and cherry size (6 pack of each from the nursery). Planted 3 of each.
Peppers some sweet and some hot: (6 pack of each from the nursery). Planted 3 of eash.
Cucumbers: Started from seed with no poblems, medium size fruit, 6 of each.
Sunflowers: Started from seed with no problems, Qty 6.
Peas: Started from seed with no problems, 6 ish or so.
Pole beans: Started from seed no problems, 6 ish or so.

Herbs - my seeds didn't germinate so got some infants from the nursery.
Chives: From the nursery but also trying again some from seed.
Basil: From the nursery.
Oregano: From the nursery.
Rosemary: From the nursery.
Parsley: From the nursery.
Lavender: Trying another round of seeds.

I want to get some dill, coriander/cilantro going. Probably some green onions/scallions going too.

I probably have a dozen ish of tomato, peppers, herb infants left from the 6 packs that will need to be re homed. Neighbors have nice garden set ups so I'll ask them if thy want them.

My Son and his girlfriend want to do some flowers so that will be the next step. Outside on the front lawn we have a rather large lilac bush. I love the smell of lilacs. Sadly the flowers are all done by the end of June in my area and if you try to clip them and put them in a water container inside, they only last a few days.

I see some posts on the neighborhood chat forums where folks looking to divide their rhubarb and you can take the cuttings for free. I might take them up on that offer but I'll have to plant them in the ground since they are not an item that would work well in containers. I love strawberry and rhubarb pie. Shoot I like straight up rhubarb sticks dipped in sugar as a snack. Maybe I try a smaller cutting and put it in a container for this summer then transplant it into the ground early in the fall. I'll have to look into transplanting rhubarb .
View All Posts by User
8trackdisco
2 years ago

You can also try Fescue, it has decent shade tollerance.

Before you dump seed down, I might think about core aerating the area. You can do it by hand or rent a machine. You mentioned the grass has gortten worse and worse year over year, so soil compaction may be an issue. It may be making it tough for nutrients to get to the grass roots. If youhave a tiller, you could also till in some manure/compost to loosen the soil and re-invite the microorganisms that make the soil healthy.

In terms of the weed and feed, just make sure it doesn't have any pre-emergent herbicides in it, as they work to prevent new growth (like your grass).

Stogie1020 wrote:



Core Aerating?
How do I accomplish that by hand? Those machines for rent are heavy. Loading and unloading the, is a non starter.
Admittedly lost. Just read this before I was going to weed n seed.

Pausing that pending your By Hand Aerating hack.
View All Posts by User
MACS
2 years ago
^You can get an aerator from Home Depot... spike aerators are $75-$100 but boy are they a pain in the arse. You may be able to have someone with a machine do it for you. IIRC I had that done on my lawn in CA for $75.

Wife has a few tomato plants... all you folks that grow these, what can she do to help them? They seem to be dying on her.

1 of them is in a small pot. That may be the problem. The other 2 are in a bigger, longer trough style pot... but they're kinda listless, too.
View All Posts by User
Stogie1020
2 years ago

Core Aerating?
How do I accomplish that by hand? Those machines for rent are heavy. Loading and unloading the, is a non starter.
Admittedly lost. Just read this before I was going to weed n seed.

Pausing that pending your By Hand Aerating hack.

8trackdisco wrote:



https://shorturl.at/rCxkY 

Make sure your soil is pretty deeply damp before trying to use or you will struggle. A good soaking the night before should help. Once you have pulled a bunch of plugs out, you can collect them by hand or if you have a rotary mower, run it at a high height over the cores and it will suck them all up into the bagger. Once you have the core holes made, I like to fill them in with playground sand. The sand allows the air/water/nutrients to exchange in the holes, but without having a bunch of actual holes in the ground.
View All Posts by User
RayR
2 years ago


Wife has a few tomato plants... all you folks that grow these, what can she do to help them? They seem to be dying on her.

1 of them is in a small pot. That may be the problem. The other 2 are in a bigger, longer trough style pot... but they're kinda listless, too.

MACS wrote:



That's a hard question to answer not knowing what cultivars she's growing, what soil she's growing in, what fertilizer and how much, how much watering she is doing and how good is the drainage in the containers.

Small pots, like 1-2 gallon size may be fine for some dwarf or micro-dwarf tomato varieties. I grow varieties like Red Robin Cherry and Sophie's Choice ( a medium-size slicer) in small containers like that and they produce great. Those will have a dense leaf canopy but only get around 1 ft. tall.



View All Posts by User
Jakethesnake86
2 years ago
Are they yellowing Macs? Little more input one of us may be able to help
I’m the snake
View All Posts by User
Abrignac
2 years ago

Are they yellowing Macs? Little more input one of us may be able to help

Jakethesnake86 wrote:



The bottom of my corn stalks are yellowing. So is my okra. Suggestions?
View All Posts by User
rfenst
2 years ago

The bottom of my corn stalks are yellowing. So is my okra. Suggestions?

Abrignac wrote:


My Lilly of the Nile (Agapanthus) are in full bloom- light blue and bluish lavender.
View All Posts by User
MACS
2 years ago

Are they yellowing Macs? Little more input one of us may be able to help

Jakethesnake86 wrote:



Yes. She's using potting soil, mostly, with tomato food. Waters morning and evening. Pots have sufficient drainage.
View All Posts by User
rfenst
2 years ago

Yes. She's using potting soil, mostly, with tomato food. Waters morning and evening. Pots have sufficient drainage.

MACS wrote:


Tomatoes are notoriously hard to grow in Florida. Got to have the right strain(s) of tomato plant or seeds. Got to watch out and protect against insects vigilantly. Disease is also an issue as are humidity and temperature.
View All Posts by User
RobertHively
2 years ago

Yes. She's using potting soil, mostly, with tomato food. Waters morning and evening. Pots have sufficient drainage.

MACS wrote:



She might be watering them too much. If it doesn't rain we might water our garden once every 2 or 3 days.

Also, make sure the water is draining out of the holes in the bottom of the pot, they could be clogged up.

Finally, make sure the pot is big enough for a full grown tomato plant. If the pot is too small it could make the plant "root bound".
View All Posts by User
Users browsing this topic
Mobile! Terms | Privacy | Contact Us | Help | © 1998-2026, CigarBid.com