victor809
6 years ago

So these air pillows only function one-way as far as vapor goes. I made a 50 gram pack with nothing but sodium chloride and it only gained 0.02 grams while in a ziplock with a cup of water (it was 90% humidity) after 24 hours. That is within the margin of error the AWS-100 has.

For now, I am going to use them as a one-way system since they still function as a barrier to the salts. I might try Tyvek at a later date since I can pick up envelopes made of that material at the post office but for the time being I am not sure where to get the Hytrel stuff Boveda uses.

Tittums wrote:



I'm curious how it could be 1-way only. Especially since it's designed to hold air inside.
did you try two with varying volumes of water and air?

If you really truly believe it's a 1-way only system, maybe turn one inside out and test it?
Tittums
6 years ago

I'm curious how it could be 1-way only. Especially since it's designed to hold air inside.
did you try two with varying volumes of water and air?

If you really truly believe it's a 1-way only system, maybe turn one inside out and test it?

victor809 wrote:



Well, the idea is to create boveda for cheaper than what they cost. If it's only one-way (inside or out) it's not boveda. For my needs to I don't need two-way if it's only going to be a set RH. I can just air out my humidor for incoming cigars that are over humidified. I have been having to do that anyway because even some 5 packs I bought caused my humidity to jump.
victor809
6 years ago

Well, the idea is to create boveda for cheaper than what they cost. If it's only one-way (inside or out) it's not boveda. For my needs to I don't need two-way if it's only going to be a set RH. I can just air out my humidor for incoming cigars that are over humidified. I have been having to do that anyway because even some 5 packs I bought caused my humidity to jump.

Tittums wrote:



I'm asking more for curiosity sake, to prove the theory.
If you turn it inside out and still cannot get the salt to absorb moisture, then we need to re-think how the experiment is set up.
Tittums
6 years ago

I'm asking more for curiosity sake, to prove the theory.
If you turn it inside out and still cannot get the salt to absorb moisture, then we need to re-think how the experiment is set up.

victor809 wrote:



I just put an inflated pillow in a glass of water and am using the 100G weight that came with my scale to calibrate it to force it partially underwater. I can't test reversing it at the moment as my hygrometers are in use testing different salt mixes.

Since it is been challenging me the most I am currently going back to using Ammonium Chloride since it is 80% RH but is used in 65% and 69% Bovedas and I can't seem to get it below 72%. Currently playing around with the 65% ingredients:


Water (Reverse Osmosis) 7732-18-5 50 to 67
Sodium chloride 7647-14-5 8 to 13
Ammonium Chloride 12125-02-9 13 to 33
Glycerin 56-81-5 10 to 29
Xanthan gum 11138-66-2 0.5 to 1.0
Citric acid 77-92-9 0.01 to 0.5

dstieger
6 years ago
After you solve that, I have another one for you, titts.

Scientifically 'prove' how storage temperature is related to relative humidity -- not just some meterology class regurgitation, but how the temp/humidity/RH relationship is manifested in rolled tobacco leaves, also. Every time someone convinced me they were on the right track, a better argument deflated them.
victor809
6 years ago

I just put an inflated pillow in a glass of water and am using the 100G weight that came with my scale to calibrate it to force it partially underwater. I can't test reversing it at the moment as my hygrometers are in use testing different salt mixes.

Since it is been challenging me the most I am currently going back to using Ammonium Chloride since it is 80% RH but is used in 65% and 69% Bovedas and I can't seem to get it below 72%. Currently playing around with the 65% ingredients:

Tittums wrote:



Interesting. Well, if you're using NH4Cl solution in water inside a plastic bag that should be ok, as long as it stays sealed.
Looks like with a very small amount of heat you can get some off-gassing of ammonia (as well as creation of a tiny bit of HCl which is supposed to be a gas, but I'd bet would just acidify your water a little)...

If the bag will pass water vapor, it may also pass NH4, which means you may get a small ammonia odor in your humidor.
USNGunner
6 years ago

After you solve that, I have another one for you, titts.

Scientifically 'prove' how storage temperature is related to relative humidity -- not just some meterology class regurgitation, but how the temp/humidity/RH relationship is manifested in rolled tobacco leaves, also. Every time someone convinced me they were on the right track, a better argument deflated them.

dstieger wrote:




LOL. Damned scientists. "If there is concurrence, there is no science."
victor809
6 years ago

After you solve that, I have another one for you, titts.

Scientifically 'prove' how storage temperature is related to relative humidity -- not just some meterology class regurgitation, but how the temp/humidity/RH relationship is manifested in rolled tobacco leaves, also. Every time someone convinced me they were on the right track, a better argument deflated them.

dstieger wrote:



.... that's all about exactly how much moisture is in the air. Which is a relationship between temperature (because at different temperatures more or less water can be "dissolved" in the air) and the amount of water present.

This is pretty well established science (outside of your strange statement about how it would "manifest in rolled tobacco leaves") so I'm not sure how anyone would deflate the argument.
dstieger
6 years ago
So, I guess the practical question is something like this:

If I like my cigars that come out of my living room humidor that has a hygrometer reading 63%RH and 69 degrees.....

should I keep the humidor in my garage which is right around 48 degrees currently, at 63%, also?

Tittums
6 years ago

After you solve that, I have another one for you, titts.

Scientifically 'prove' how storage temperature is related to relative humidity -- not just some meterology class regurgitation, but how the temp/humidity/RH relationship is manifested in rolled tobacco leaves, also. Every time someone convinced me they were on the right track, a better argument deflated them.

dstieger wrote:



I've only been in this hobby for a year (next feb) but my basic understanding of RH/Temp is no higher than 70F to prevent tobacco beetles then you want a custom RH/Temp that is going to result in the best smoke once it leaves your humidor.

Based one what I have seen for humid locations like Florida (where I live) you want things at around 64% and 64-66F since you are pulling the cigar out of a cooler environment that shock is going to pull humidity out of the air. This is purely observation on my part and I honestly am clueless if it is accurate.

Humidity control is my obsession at the moment so I don't really think or care about temperature. One thing to do keep in mind if you are using a humidity control solution that involves salts (Bovedas, and the other brands that are popping up like RH Shield and Schmécké) is temperature will have an effect on how much moisture the salts will release but this is usually only a difference of 1-2%.

https://i.imgur.com/NjjV2Zb.png  If you want the full paper google "Humidity fixed points of binary saturated aqueous"

https://i.imgur.com/YclKuEw.png 


Tittums
6 years ago

So, I guess the practical question is something like this:

If I like my cigars that come out of my living room humidor that has a hygrometer reading 63%RH and 69 degrees.....

should I keep the humidor in my garage which is right around 48 degrees currently, at 63%, also?

dstieger wrote:



Like I said in my previous reply I am no expert here but I would actually suggest a higher RH of 1-2% if you are going to be smoking it in 48F. The cold (which everyone should know because this is why you should never store cigars in a refridgerator) will suck humidity right out of anything. And sure, you are going to light it and that will be a source of heat but you are hopefully trying to keep the point between you and the fire cool since as we all know that will affect flavor.

In short, if you are pulling it from a warm environment into a cold environment you want a slightly higher RH as storage since this is going to give you a buffer to lose humidity.

In reverse, a cold to a hot environment, you want a slightly lower RH because that cold stick is going to suck humidity out of the air.

Depending on the extremes its not going to be a huge amount of humidity transfer but that buffer should improve your smoke experience.
victor809
6 years ago

So, I guess the practical question is something like this:

If I like my cigars that come out of my living room humidor that has a hygrometer reading 63%RH and 69 degrees.....

should I keep the humidor in my garage which is right around 48 degrees currently, at 63%, also?

dstieger wrote:



No.

There's a chart called a psychrometric chart which is a pain in the ass but I've had to use in the past. It shows you the relationship between temperature and relative humidity.
If you follow a psychrometric chart to see the "grains of water" (this is a measure of the amount of water) in the air at 48F and 63%rh, you will find that is much fewer grains than an equivalent 63%RH at 69F.

We can assume that the grains of water in the air will correlate directly with how much is available to be absorbed by the tobacco leaves
Tittums
6 years ago

No.

There's a chart called a psychrometric chart which is a pain in the ass but I've had to use in the past. It shows you the relationship between temperature and relative humidity.
If you follow a psychrometric chart to see the "grains of water" (this is a measure of the amount of water) in the air at 48F and 63%rh, you will find that is much fewer grains than an equivalent 63%RH at 69F.

We can assume that the grains of water in the air will correlate directly with how much is available to be absorbed by the tobacco leaves

victor809 wrote:



Much better than my explanation, but this is where you show you are more educated on this than myself. "Grains of water" is not a term I am familiar with so I am guessing this is some scientific term to reference a fraction of a gram when refering to moisture or vaporized liquids.
victor809
6 years ago
An easy way to look at RH is that at any given temperature 100% RH is when water vapor will start condensing. If you are at 60% RH and 70F, and you take that box and reduce the temperature to 50F, the amount of moisture already present as vapor will condense to water, because vapor cannot hold that much moisture at 50F (you can follow the psychrometric chart and see that 60% at 70F is greater than 100% at 50F.)

Now, once you open the box, the moisture will disappear, beccause the volume of your box is tiny compared to the volume of the garage, and your cigars will then be held in an environment with much less moisture than before
victor809
6 years ago

Much better than my explanation, but this is where you show you are more educated on this than myself. "Grains of water" is not a term I am familiar with so I am guessing this is some scientific term to reference a fraction of a gram when refering to moisture or vaporized liquids.

Tittums wrote:



honestly don't know where "grains" came from. I had never heard the term until I had to work on automation systems for building management systems in the pharma industry. These control the air handling units which have to remove (or add) moisture to the air for the manufacturing suites. People would get very obsessed about exactly how many grains of moisture were in the air before it was heated to the temperature of the manufacturing suite.

When I was in science I had never used the term "grains"... seems to be limited to people who care about climate control. Science uses grams (and the variations on that)
Tittums
6 years ago

honestly don't know where "grains" came from. I had never heard the term until I had to work on automation systems for building management systems in the pharma industry. These control the air handling units which have to remove (or add) moisture to the air for the manufacturing suites. People would get very obsessed about exactly how many grains of moisture were in the air before it was heated to the temperature of the manufacturing suite.

When I was in science I had never used the term "grains"... seems to be limited to people who care about climate control. Science uses grams (and the variations on that)

victor809 wrote:



I can definitely understand that. I sometimes worry about how many miligrams 1 gram of sodium chloride is since I live in a humid climate so 1 gram of sodium chloride for me is not 100% sodium chloride unless I go to the trouble of dehydrating it (which I do not). This goes the same for a lot of drugs since they will also absorb moisture from the air. Depending on the drug, you can kill someone, or fail to help someone if 100miligram os something is too many miligrams of water from absorbtion.
victor809
6 years ago
There is an issue with weighing, but the bigger problem in our case was that the drug was severely hygroscopic. Apparently if it wasn't maintained below a specific humidity it would absorb too much water, and this would lead to issues in properly blending it and pressing it. But yes, you are correct. If something absorbs water easily, then weighing it at two different RHs would give you two different concentrations of drug. Not something you want in medicine. I don't know if the values would be different enough to kill/not help someone, I don't think the tolerances are quite that close. But it would certainly wreck hell with any clinical trials trying to measure the patient's ability to process the drug.
Tittums
6 years ago
Any chemists in the house? Every time I play around with Ammonium Chloride and Sodium Chloride in a solution I always go above 70% RH. The question is (and google has failed me or I suck at googling) is there a reaction I am not getting between Citric Acid and the previously mentioned Chlorides?

Currently working with:

Test Batch 5 ():

*10.78 gram vessel*

3G Water
4G Ammonium Chloride
1G Sodium Chloride
3G Vegetable Glycerine

The 65% and 69% bovedas use Citric Acid and Citric Acid+Sodium Citrate respectively but it is always above 70%

tl;dr, at this point I am trying to use up my remaining Ammonium Chloride. I technically don't need this to work because I can easily get (my current target for this batch) of 64-65% with Sodium Chloride and Magnesium Chloride.

For reference at 20c/68F these salts have the following RH in solution:

Sodium Chloride: 75%
Ammonium Chloride: 80% (this is what makes me say it makes no sense to use it for lower than 75% RH)
Magnesium Chloride: 33%

https://i.imgur.com/witoLbu.png 
victor809
6 years ago
Best guess ... in equilibrium you may have a little bit of ammonia being formed.

With heat NH4Cl will form a bit of this:
NH4Cl → NH3 + HCl

Additionally, we also know
NH4Cl + NaOH → NH3 + NaCl + H2O

So, if we assume that at equilibrium some percentage of both sides of these reactions will be represented, then it is likely some of the NH3 formed in the second reaction is reacting with the NaCl and H2O already present to re-form NH4Cl and also create NaOH.

Throw in the additional presence of MgCl2... which may be forming an equilibrium with the NaOH as well... which will create Mg(OH)2 as well.

Sh1t.... I'm way too far removed from my undergrad chemistry to start mapping this all out. Needless to say, you may be forming some compounds you aren't expecting here....
Tittums
6 years ago

Best guess ... in equilibrium you may have a little bit of ammonia being formed.

With heat NH4Cl will form a bit of this:
NH4Cl → NH3 + HCl

Additionally, we also know
NH4Cl + NaOH → NH3 + NaCl + H2O

So, if we assume that at equilibrium some percentage of both sides of these reactions will be represented, then it is likely some of the NH3 formed in the second reaction is reacting with the NaCl and H2O already present to re-form NH4Cl and also create NaOH.

Throw in the additional presence of MgCl2... which may be forming an equilibrium with the NaOH as well... which will create Mg(OH)2 as well.

Sh1t.... I'm way too far removed from my undergrad chemistry to start mapping this all out. Needless to say, you may be forming some compounds you aren't expecting here....

victor809 wrote:




Yeah, I am definitely trying to avoid HCl since I believe that is lethal? So I have not started heating things and will likely avoid buying a boiling flask to start doing it.

NaOH is Sodium Hydroxide? Unless I made it by accident this shouldn't be present?

MgCl2 is not in this solution but I am willing to accept some contamination from previous mixes if the salts managed to form within the bag itself while evaporating.

I am just bummed about this because I didn't spend too much on the Ammonium Chloride but the smallest amount I could get on Amazon was 1 pound so I have a lot of it.

As I write this I remember it has uses in food preparation which provided more information upon searching:

It has low hygroscopicity, but it can also absorb moisture and agglomerate in wet and rainy weather. Powdered food grade Ammonium Chloride is very easy to absorb moisture, especially wet Ammonium; the moisture absorption point is generally around 76%



Again, no expert here, but maybe I am adding too much water?

edit: After looking into NaOH more I don't believe I would have made or even willingly be involved with it since it causes burns to the skin. I believe all of Boveda's stuff is designed around the idea a child or pet might get into it and it is reletively non-toxic. While I do not have kids, I do have German Shepherds so what I am making for personal use I am trying to make it non-toxic.
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