I’ve got some tomatoes planted. They look healthy in that the leaves are not wilted and the color seems ok but not as dark a green as I’d like. They also don’t seem to be growing as vigorously as I’d expect. They get sun all day and I water them every 2-3 days depending on relative dampness of the soil. When I planed them I scratched in about a tablespoon of organic tomato fertilizer around each plant.

I’m concerned that I might need to add some lime. They are in a raised bed which I made from “garden soil” purchased in bulk from a nursery. It seems to be mostly compost and small wood chips. It’s very dark colored. Not black but close. Anyone have any ideas?

Abrignac wrote:

I’ve got some tomatoes planted. They look healthy in that the leaves are not wilted and the color seems ok but not as dark a green as I’d like. They also don’t seem to be growing as vigorously as I’d expect. They get sun all day and I water them every 2-3 days depending on relative dampness of the soil. When I planed them I scratched in about a tablespoon of organic tomato fertilizer around each plant.

I’m concerned that I might need to add some lime. They are in a raised bed which I made from “garden soil” purchased in bulk from a nursery. It seems to be mostly compost and small wood chips. It’s very dark colored. Not black but close. Anyone have any ideas?

Abrignac wrote:

Spoke to nursery. They advised the mix is 6.5 - 7.0

Abrignac wrote:

The trick with dry organic fertilizer is to not scratch it in, but to incorporate it deeply in the soil before planting. All organics depend on microbial action to break them down to feed the plants so it's like a time delay. Depending on the dry organic fertilizer you are using, some have hotter components than others and have nutrients that are more readily available, those that include aged poultry manure which is high in Nitrogen (N) and is faster acting. Fresh poultry manure is so hot in nitrogen that it can burn plant roots just as using too much high N synthetic fertilizer would do.

There is no way of telling what nutrients are readily available in the garden soil you purchased without a soil test. Compost is good because it will have a wide variety of nutrients and microbial activity, Aged partially composted wood chips take a long time to break down and are mostly beneficial for aeration. Fresh wood chips should only be used as top mulch since incorporating them into the soil will bind up nitrogen.

Don't add lime unless you know your soil needs it or use very little. Agricultural lime is ground-up limestone that contains Calcium carbonate and Magnesium carbonate. It is mostly used to increase the PH of soils that are too acidic but also slowly releases the nutrients calcium and magnesium into the soil. Fruiting plants like tomatoes use calcium more heavily than nonfruiting plants.

Leaf color can indicate nutrient deficiencies or excesses. You want a nice heathy green leaf color but there is such a thing as too green which would indicate nitrogen overload which could lead to leaf burn and that ain't good. A purple color on the bottom of a tomato leaf would indicate a phosphorous (P) deficiency, but that wouldn't necessarily indicate that your soil is deficient in P, cold soil has the same effect since tomato roots can't take up P efficiently if the soil is too cold.

I've been using mostly organics for years, I use organic dry fertilizers (mostly Espoma, but others too) in the soil at the beginning, but also use
a liquid organic to feed seedlings and as a supplement feed every 2 weeks or so as plants mature. (I've been using AgroThrive the last 3 years or so but I've also used fish hydrolysate)

RayR wrote:

^ corn needs a lot of nitro.

I’d put the lime on the corn as recommended. Lime basically helps the plant use the fertilizer. I recommended a ton per acre which I’m sure you mathed out. That should t even be able to move it a point. So if you’re at a 5.5 it should only bring you up a little over 6 which will be great. If you’re at a 4 you’re low and it might make it up to almost 5 which would be pretty alright.

Some of the university study’s are worth a read. I’ve learned a little something by reading them. Not everything will be applicable because different zones and different soil structures. However there’s good info out there in most of those studies

Abrignac I’d add nitrogen

Jakethesnake86 wrote:

Thx

I ordered this. It’ll take about 10 days to arrive though. So I’ll probably hit them with a weak serving of miracle grow tomorrow to hold them over until it arrives.

https://theurbanfarm.com/product/texas-tomato-food/ 

Abrignac wrote:

Ya, I wouldn't add any lime then. The PH is already in the zone you want.

What organic fertilizer are you using?

RayR wrote:

Ray as you know I’ve blocked you so unless someone quotes your post all I see is a blank space unless I click quote on one of your posts. If I do that then I can see what you wrote.

I saw what you said when Robert quoted you. I read through it very carefully. I do believe it’s very good advice.

That said I just looked at the post you made about the Texas tomato food. I’m looking forward to trying it.

Going forward I will hit the quote button on your posts in this thread as I’m thankful for the good information you’ve provided here. Apparently you’ve tilled a row or two in your lifetime.

Abrignac wrote:

Does that mean I kinda sorta unblocked now? 😕 😂

RayR wrote:

If you happen to harvest a deer. I'm all in for some venison meat (I'm not a hunter) but deer tastes good.

BuckyB93 wrote: