Buddy have me his old 3d printer. It's frustrating for sure. Ben working 12s a bunch and other days I been tinkering with the printer and keep failing prints. Frustrating for sure.
Cheno wrote:
Calibrating the printer also makes a huge deal. What model of 3D printer is it?
I have a Bambu A1 mini at home that works very well. Nearly idiot proof. It calibrates itself before every print. You have an option to turn that off to save about 5 minutes of printing time but I just keep it on. The calibration cycle start prior to printing.
It kinda goes like this: the print head goes down and kisses the print plate in 36 different areas so it knows where things are. Say the back corner is a hair higher than the front corner - it adjusts accordingly while it prints. It calibrates itself on the filament extrusion speed so it knows how hot and how fast to feed the filament. It runs all the motors at a variety of speeds and analyses vibrations so it can smooth them out (think noise canceling headphones). I rarely have crappy prints. It even has a video camera that monitors the print and if it's making "spaghetti" it stops printing. I don't use this option. If the print head becomes clogged or if filament runs out and so on, it stops printing and alerts you for for human intervention.
It cost me about $500 for the printer and a 4 filament auto feed unit so I can print a model with up to 4 different color/style/material filaments in a single print. Combining different filament materials in a single print is problems since they have different melting points and stuff (don't want to print a rubbery layer that has to mate with a more stiffer layer).
I typically use PLA or PETG filaments. These are the most common filaments used for most stuff. I buy them on Amazon and have kinda settled on a handful of manufacturers: Bambu, Elegoo, Overture, eSun, Sunlu, Hatchbox, Polymaker, Creality.
At work we have an older Prusa printer. It works OK but it doesn't do all the stuff that my Bambu can do. You need to manually calibrate it periodically which is a pain in the ass. Make an adjustment, print a test plate, tweak the adjustments and repeat until it's kicking out good prints.
Also the slicing software you use plays a role. The slicing software will take your model, the filament type, the printer that your are using and so on... slices this and writes the G-code that your printer needs to tell it what to do.
For slicing software, I use BambuStudio mostly but also use PrusaSlicer. Both are free download and have a big community. They do periodical updates incorporating new options, fixes and upgrades - things that the community wants or fix bugs that the community finds.